When Do I Winterize?

Baby It's Cold Outside!

Temperatures in North Carolina dipped into the 30's this past weekend.  With this drop in temps came multiple phone calls from rose gardeners asking what needs to be done this time of year to protect their roses.

Here in North Carolina we have a longer growing season than other parts of the country which means you might see blooms until late November if we're lucky; however, the bush will begin to defoliate this time of year and the frost might nip the edges of the blooms.  Even with the temperatures dropping as quickly as your rose's leaves, you will not need to winterize your roses until December!

That being said, now is an excellent time to begin thinking about winterizing and making preparations to cutback in December!

What is Winter Protection?

It consists of cutting back the roses to about 36" high and covering the center of the plant with mulch. This is done in early December after we have had several frosts and the roses have gone semi-dormant.

Why is it Important?

Winter protection is important even in North Carolina where the winters are generally mild.  I would think of winterizing as insurance for your roses.  

How Do I Winterize?

Cutting Back

• Prune roses back to 36" high
• Prevents breakage from snow and ice accumulations and winter winds

Mulching (Mounding)

• Cover the graft union with 6-8" of pine or hardwood mulch
• Insulates and prevents the graft from freezing or drying out

Things to Remember

Cutting back and mounding your roses should be done every year to protect them from possible cold damage.

Pine straw or leaves do not insulate as well as wood mulches so they are not recommended for winter protection.

Make sure your pruners are sharpened and are in great working order before you cutback.  This will make the job easier and safer for you.

While we are sad to see the growing season come to an end, we can get excited about giving our roses time to rest and recoup for the next season!

Rose Garden Preparation in the Fall?

Prepare for your New Rose Garden in the Fall

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Spiced cider, moonlit hayrides, and bonfires usher us into the time of year where the air is crisp and sweet as the season's apples.  Autumn weather also brings with it one last beautiful flush of roses.  When you are surrounded by blooms that rival spring's first blossoms, it is difficult to imagine what the next season will bring.  And even though the season is not quite over, now is the time to begin prepping your garden for next season.

So why is fall a good time to prepare your garden?  Besides the fact that fall weather is perfect for working outside, it is a good idea to prepare the bed with enough time for the soil to settle over winter.  By putting in a little hard work now, your yard will become a healthy, happy home for our new rose garden in the spring. 

How Do I Prepare?

Step 1

Choose a location where the rose garden will receive at least 6 hours of full sun a day, preferably morning sun, and is away from large trees or shrubs as the roots will leech all of the nutrients your roses need to thrive. 

Step 2

Remove sod if the area is new or clear an existing area of weeds, stumps, rocks, etc.

Step 3  

Dig down 16 inches to turn the soil over.

Step 4 

If the area is a brand new area for planting, add 2 bags of Witherspoon Premium Planting Mix PER BUSH. (I know it seems like a lot, but this creates a nice loamy soil)  If the area has been conditioned before, you might be able to use less planting mix.  If you are unable to pick up Witherspoon's Premium Planting Mix, you can use a mixture of 50lb of composted cow manure, 1 bag of soil conditioner, and a 40lb bag of Permatill® for every 2 bushes.

Step 5  

Broadcast 3 cups of Witherspoon Essentials per bush over the entire bed.  If you are unable to pick up a bag of Witherspoon Essentials, use 1 cup each of Bone Meal, Lime, and Gypsum per bush.

Step 6  

Till the bed thoroughly to incorporate the soil amendments into your existing soil.  Over winter the soil will settle and your bed will be ready to welcome spring additions! 

Step 7

Sit back with an ice cold glass of water and the new Witherspoon Rose Catalog.  October is the best time to order bareroot roses for the following season. Why is that?  You will not have to worry about the rose you carefully selected from the catalog being sold out and you will also be able to take advantage of the early bird discount!

Enter the coupon code "EB2015" at checkout to receive 15% off your entire rose order of 6 or more roses now through January 31, 2015!

Click Photo to Browse 2015 Catalog

2015 Rose Introduction

2015 Rose Reveal

Witherspoon Rose Culture is proud to introduce these roses into our 2015 collection!

Our Catalog Launch Party is happening 
October 4th 10am-4pm!

Hybrid Teas and Grandifloras

American Dream (WINbur)

Live the American Dream by filling your rose garden with velvety red, long stemmed roses.  With large, spiral blooms, this excellent cut rose will stand proudly in any arrangement.  (3’w x 5-6’h) (Certified)

Color Magic (JACmag)

Each bloom exhibits a wide spectrum of pink hues ranging from salmon to apricot and pink kissed ivory to deep rose.  With colors that deepen in the sun and an intense fruity fragrance, this rose will excite the magic lover in all of us. (3-4’w x 4-6’h) (Certified)

Dolly Parton

Very large, voluptuous burnt orange-red blossoms invite you over to experience the tantalizingly strong fragrance of sweet rose.  Long lasting blooms live up to their namesake as this rose is a show stopper!  (4’w x 4-5’h) (Star)

The McCartney Rose™ (MEIzeli)

This attention grabbing rose was given to Sir Paul McCartney by his record company to celebrate his birthday.  Massive, brilliant pink blooms pull you in to experience a mesmerizing candy-like fragrance.  (2-3’w x 3-6’h) (Star)

The Wake Forest University Rose

EXCLUSIVE! You don’t have to be a Demon Deacon to appreciate the golden color of this university rose!  This grandiflora, with good disease resistance and a light apple fragrance, is a great bloomer with blossoms that deepen in color with cooler temperatures.  With $10 from every rose purchased going to the general scholarship fund, you can feel good about adding the first university rose to your garden. (3’w x 5-6’h) (Weeks)

Sedona (JACmcall)

Warm blossoms, reminiscent of a desert sunset, burst open to reveal layers of reds, corals, and oranges.  As the bloom spirals open, it will entice you to take a closer look with its strong pear fragrance.  (3-4’w, 5-6’h)  PPAF (Weeks) 

Floribundas

Columbus (WEKuz)

Columbus will entice you to explore the deepest corners of the garden with its deep pink, well-formed blossoms that do not fade in the sun.  (3’w x 4’h) PP8183 (Weeks)

Climbers

Cl. Above All™ (CHEWesic)

This modernized version of the classic Westerland has the same salmon-orange clusters of blooms, but with more petals and improved flower production.  Combine that with a fruity fragrance, great disease resistance, and excellent vigor for a modern climber that will continuously bloom spring through fall. (10-14’h) PPAF (Weeks)

Cl. Coral Dawn®

Deep pink buds open into well-formed, soft pink blooms on this vigorous climber.  Blooming in fragrant flushes throughout the season, this climber puts on a show you will not want to miss! (8-12’h) PP1117 (Certified)

Cl. Malvern Hills® (AUScanary)

Clusters of small yellow blossoms repeatedly bloom in flushes on long arching canes. Experience the delightful rose fragrance that only a David Austin can provide with this free flowering, almost thornless climber. (12’h)

David Austin

Claire Austin (AUSprior)

There is an elegance that only a white rose can bring to a garden.  Let the strong scent of myrrh and vanilla invite you in to fully experience the large cupped bloom.  Long arching canes, coupled with disease resistance and vigor, will add subtle elegance to any rose garden for years to come.  (3’w x 4-5’h) PP19465 

Tree Roses

Weeping China Doll

Sprays of ruffled pink blossoms on long slender canes spill over to create an alluring display worthy of becoming a focal point.  Moderate temperatures will increase bloom production. (48”h) (Weeks)

What is Chelated Iron and Why Should I Care?

What is Clorosis?

If you notice yellowing between the veins of the laves or if the leaves appear to be a lighter green than normal, your plant may have chlorosis caused by an iron deficiency.  If a plant cannot take in iron from the soil it cannot for chlorophyll which is what makes healthy leaves look green and strong.

An iron deficient plant will be hightly susceptible to diseases it would normally resist, such as Downy Mildew in July.

Two Eden Climbers.  The plant on the right is showing severe iron deficiency and was treated with both a soil drench and a foliar spray.

The same plants two months after chelated iron treatment.  Notice that the plant on the right has regained its color and vigorous growth.

What is Chelated Iron?

Chelated iron has been treated to make the iron soluble in water and more readily available to a plant for easier uptake after being applied.  In other words, it makes the iron immediately available to the plant and helps the plant form chlorophyll which will create healthy green leaves.  We all like healthy green leaves!

What are the Symptoms of Clorosis?

1. Yellowing starting between the veins on the leaves (interveinal chlorosis)
2. Brown edges on the leaves
3. Poor plant growth and lack of flowering
4. Tough, brittle leaf texture and marginal curling of the most heavily affected leaves

10 different rose varieties, all showing various degrees and stages of iron deficiency.

Two months after treatment, the dark green color has returned and the roses have begun to flower again.

How Do I Use Chelated Iron?

Applying chelated iron will temporarily reverse the chlorosis but a soil test is the best way to find out why your plant or plants seem to have an iron deficiency.  The underlying causes vary from high pH to over fertilization to waterlogging.  The soil test results will suggest steps that can be taken to improve the soil and prevent iron deficiencies in the future.

Liquid chelated iron my be applied either as a foliar spray or a soil drench around the drip line of the plant.  Foliar sprays will be faster and more effective than soil drenches, especially if the soil is very dry.  One caution - it is important to spray the leaves when the temperatures are cooler, preferably in the mornings, to avoid burning the leaves.  If you decided to apply iron to the soil, add the recommended amount of a gallon of water and apply at the base of the plant.  For severe cases, performing the soil drench AND the foliar spray will provide the benefits of both treatments to the plant.

Foliar Spray 

Acts quickly to restore the color in the leaves 

Soil Drench

Moves slowly upwards through the plant to provide sustained greening throughout the canes

Now you know what chelated iron is, why you might want to use it, and how to apply it safely to your plants.

Let's hear a cheer for healthy green leaves!